On a recent weekend getaway, my husband and I returned to one of the country’s most pristine, unpopulated, and I am thrilled to report, now protected coastlines - the eastern shore of Lake Michigan from Arcadia north to the towns of Elberta and Frankfort - approximately 30 miles of breathtakingly lovely shoreline that bumps up against 300 foot dunes populated by pine, larch, exotic dune flowers, seagulls, bald eagles, and the occasional crazed woodchuck.
We had spent many blissful days on these shores as feckless, reckless, unencumbered twenty-somethings. We’d been returning nearly every year since with our two boys, often with our sweet nieces, my father and occasionally my sisters and and their husbands allowing us all the pleasure of days filled with sun, sand, water, hikes, campfires, shooting stars, scary stories, good books, good food, and the occasional falling out which results from too much of a good thing.
On this weekend in June we were returning alone, our children now nearly grown and occupied elsewhere as is wont to happen. The car trip there was at first larky and upbeat and then, melancholy, as we drew closer to the shore and felt the loneliness of returning without our children and without the carefree, anything-can-happen feelings that we arrived with in our younger days.
With our older boy in college and the younger one on his way, and one of us 3 years without work (the result of the dying Michigan economy), we decided to economize and stay in a tourist cabin that we had passed many times and considered something of a curiosity. We checked in at the big house in front, retrieved our key and drove slowly between the two rows of cabins feeling like Lucy and Desi. Number 9, our cabin, had two rooms, just barely; but with ceiling fans in each room, a constant breeze off the dunes, a kitchenette, places to read inside and out, hardy flowers blooming around the door, we were content.
We arrived early enough on a Thursday evening to head out for a great Mexican dinner and then drive up, over, and down the dune to the Elberta pier to check out the sunset. At the foot of the dune, emboldened by several Margaritas, we decided to follow the sand lane that paralleled the beach and see if we could reach the site of many wild and crazy parties that we had had there as college kids. Making good progress in our Subaru Outback we were looking forward to some romantic moments in a secluded spot at sunset. Then the car stopped.
We spent a half-hour trying to dig the wheels out of the sugar sand that we had blithely driven into. We were hopelessly mired down, had no cell phone service, and we’d missed the sunset. It was getting dark when a jeep showed up and we hitched a ride back to town, waited two hours for AAA service, and finally got back to the cabin about midnight. We drank some cold beer, read for awhile, and took showers to wash off all the sand. We agreed without discussing it that we wouldn’t share the beach story with the kids.
The rest of the weekend was great–hiking, sun, sand, water, wonderful shore food, reading late at night, and reading early in the morning with good coffee. On our last night we got buzzed and saw the DaVinci Code in an old summer theater with a rippled old screen, retirees yelling at people to sit down, and kids running up and down the aisles.
It was a reassuring weekend. The next time won’t feel so melancholy.
Eileen Parker is a writer and water colorist. She lives outside Ann Arbor in an old house where she tends her large and beautiful garden.